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Sub-floor pressure relief system

Description

It has many names, most commonly known as a french drain system ours has a different name because of all the thought and experience put into designing the best solution there is to prevent floor from being wet due to water coming from the exterior or behind the wall

What causes water to come in?

There are multiple ways that water may come into your basement. It may come through your walls due to poor construction, erosion, cracking of the wall or simply overflowing your foundation wall due to poor grading on the outside. It may also come from under your floor due to hydrostatic pressure, cracks in the floor, or we have seen an actual small spring under the house before. 


Ground is naturally moist and depending on the soil type some may hold more water in itself and some might be more pervious but one thing is true, there is always moisture against your foundation and foundation walls


Water always finds a path and a weak spot, even when your home is built 99.99% correct but on the first year after being constructed 1 drop goes through a small space in your wall, 10 years later it will be 5 drops every major rainstorm, but water erodes concrete and in 20-30 years it has carved its path to continuously flow into your basement.


Cinder blocks, or concrete in general subjected to constant moisture over the years loose their strength, sometimes when cinder blocks are painted with waterproofing paint that water is blocked inside the cinderblock for months or years and the pressure of wet soil from the exterior make the brittle weakened wall break and fall into the basement (in 15 years in the business we dealt with 7 such cases)

How we're going to fix it?

Our Sub-floor pressure relief interior drainage systems go above and beyond to make sure we completely stop and prevent your basement from ever flooding again. We break concrete between at least 14-16 inches away from the perimeter of the wall and dig down 12-14 inches and at least 10-12inches wide to allow for plenty space for drainage installation in our experience the deeper and wide the dig the lower water is collected and drier the basement is. After trenches are dug out and cleaned we install a mud filter fabric on the bottom of trench to block any and all possible sediments that might contaminate our system. Next we install 4.5inch perforated pipe and pitch it towards the sump pump at approximately 1 inch for every 15 feet of system to allow from proper draining. We later surround the perforate pipe with clean 3/4 inch gravel to allow for open space under the floor and furthermore filter any possible sediments. If the foundation wall is made of cinder block we will drill weep holes at the floor level in every cavity of the cinder block and at every joint of the cinder block to drain any possible water or moisture that is sitting inside of the walls and allow the wall to "breathe" as well. One of the last steps is to install MIRA-DRAIN which is a "waffle-like" plastic that creates a 5/8 inch gap between the wall and the floor after the concrete floor is repoured, also it separates the concrete from the system so the concrete doesn't sink down and pollute the sub-floor pressure relief system. For concrete purposes we use 4000PSI+ high strength concrete with bonding additives to help it cure faster and allows for less cracks when it ponds to the existing floor.




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